off the menu
An all-day offshoot of Patisserie Chanson, a neighborhood bistro for Park Slope, and more restaurant news.
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For this new restaurant, the Brazilian architect Isay Weinfeld has not radically disrupted his design for the Four Seasons 2.0, which briefly occupied the space until 2019. He repeated the tawny tones of the wood-paneled main dining room, but now the floor is carpeted, the lighting is softer and wood dividers separate some tables. It is the first New York restaurant for the Fasano Group, a restaurant and hotel powerhouse based in São Paulo, Brazil. (Mr. Weinfeld has designed a number of the group’s many properties.) Gero Fasano, who runs the company in partnership with the developers JHSF, said the new restaurant had to be warmer, more appealing and better for sound. The food is expense-account Northern Italian, mostly traditional and often elaborate, including bollito misto dispensed from a silver cart. The former bar in the front room is now a more informal osteria with linen place mats instead of tablecloths, a huge bar along the windows and a somewhat simpler menu written on smoky mirrors (think spaghetti with tomato sauce and no risotti). The wine selection is global. There is no art on the walls in the dining areas. In late March, outdoor seating will be added, and, upstairs in a few months, there will be a spacious cabaret. Mr. Fasano’s company was founded in 1902 when his Milanese great-grandfather emigrated to Brazil. The family was in and out of the restaurant business over the decades until Mr. Fasano, against the advice of his father who made his fortune in distilleries, plunged in and has applied his exacting standards ever since. The executive chef, Nicola Fedeli, a Florentine who has worked with the company for several years, adheres to Mr. Fasano’s strict demands as to preparation and presentation. There’s no New York-style salad on top of the oversize, impossibly thin $70 veal Milanese; it’s served on the side lest the veal get soggy. (Opens Friday)
280 Park Avenue (entrance on 49th Street), 646-869-5400, fasanorestaurantny.com.
This French-inspired brasserie in TriBeCa is an offshoot of Patisserie Chanson and its underground Thyme Bar on West 23rd Street. By day, Chanson’s pastries and other takeaway items are sold in the front of the new space. In the evening, the executive chef Frédéric Robert, formerly at the Baccarat Hotel, takes over with traditional fare like lobster bisque, filet mignon au poivre, and duck à l’orange in a warmly decorated 50-seat dining room. There will be heated outdoor seating as well. Jeremy Le Blanche, who runs the drinks program at Thyme Bar, is in charge of libations here.
355 Greenwich Street (Harrison Street), 646-930-2272, chansonlesalon.com.
The chefs Jay Kumar and John Kim have joined forces to open this brick-walled neighborhood bistro. The inventive menu features fermented dosa with potatoes and red lentils; smoked steelhead trout; wild mushroom ragout with buckwheat spaetzle and fenugreek pesto; and bavette steak with local potatoes and masala butter. Mr. Kim, whose background is Korean, had been the chef de cuisine at Electric Lemon in Hudson Yards. Mr. Kumar, a native of India, was the chef and owner of Jay’s in Basel, Switzerland.
441 Seventh Avenue (15th Street), Park Slope, Brooklyn, 347-599-0300, lorebrooklyn.com.
Fried chicken, Indian-style, is the latest from Roni Mazumdar and Chintan Pandya of Unapologetic Foods (Dhamaka, Adda Indian Canteen, Semma). Takeout, delivery and only eight seats are available, and you can order three pieces of bone-in or boneless chicken at various spice points and with different sauces. Also available are two or three pieces with more garnishes and bread, three pieces of boneless or cauliflower in chile sauce, a potato dumpling and pakora sides.
149 First Avenue (Ninth Street), no phone, rowdyrooster.com.
Boris Lidukhover, the experienced restaurateur who owns Sushi Dojo in the East Village, and Larisa Sheihet, who has a doctorate in food science, have combined their expertise at this homey new Middle Eastern spot. For the cooking, the partners have tapped Jay Moulay Alami, who was born in Morocco and went on to work in Europe and at Wallsé in New York. By day, the menu is vegetarian-vegan with dishes like shakshuka, meatless moussaka and bourekas. Dinnertime turns omnivorous with mezze, lamb meatballs, shrimp gratin and kebabs. Baked goods, also sold to-go, feature assorted cookies. The intimate room has a heated patio in back.
1663 First Avenue (87th Street), 646-559-1560, lashevetrestaurant.com.
The nonstop string of openings from Salil Mehta of Laut, Singapura and Wau continues with this takeout and delivery spot devoted to Southeast Asia. Hawker fare, late-night bites and comfort food define the menu. Steamed won tons with sambal, “Singlish” fries with salted egg aioli, roast pork over rice, a chicken burger with bird’s-eye chile paste, and khao mok gai (Thai-style biryani with mint sauce), are some of the dishes. There is very limited counter seating. (Wednesday)
17 East 13th Street, 646-609-2633, chardnyc.com.
Not your usual grab-and-go, this new spot is truly a cafe with table service, beer and wine, in addition to coffees brewed from beans roasted on premises and a chef, Youssef Aderdour, who worked with Alain Ducasse. The menu includes sandwiches, a salad, a quiche and assorted pastries. Another location is to come this summer.
95 Greenwich Avenue (West 12th Street), 646-952-0070, elcondor.coffee.
Through March 22, Nobuhiro Hamazaki, the executive chef of Koi in Midtown for many years, is running this pop-up sushi spot in the Ainslie, a multistory Italian restaurant where John DeLucie is the chef. Mr. Hamazaki creatively interprets sushi, offering specialties like spicy tuna on crispy rice; salmon tartare on won ton tacos; and the Ainslie roll, combining prosciutto, flamed mozzarella and avocado. In the spring, Underground Sushi with Mr. Hamazaki wielding his knives will move to a vast new Ainslie restaurant on the Lower East Side in the space that once housed Vandal and the General.
76 Ainslie Street (Keap Street), Williamsburg, Brooklyn, 347-725-3400, ainsliebk.com.
Guy Vaknin, the restaurateur and chef best known for his Beyond Sushi vegan restaurants and catering by his City Roots Hospitality, has added this vegan kosher restaurant to his collection. Its approach is Italian, with dishes like portobello carpaccio, seitan “steak” marsala, and rigatoni with Impossible Bolognese. Mock vegan cheeses are used throughout, including on pizzas.
365 Third Avenue (26th Street), 646-861-2889, colettanyc.com.
Francis Staub, the founder of the French cookware company that bears his name, has taken over what was Brasserie Les Halles on Park Avenue South, made famous as the springboard for the chef Anthony Bourdain, who died in 2018. The menu for the new restaurant is quite classic, with some emphasis on moules-frites and an occasional foray into Italy.
411 Park Avenue South (29th Street), 212-567-8282, labrasserienyc.com.
Ian Schrager has tapped these chefs to run restaurants in the Madrid Edition hotel, to open in March. Mr. Olvera, who owns Pujol in Mexico City, also has Cosme and Atla in Manhattan; Mr. Muñoz, from Lima, Peru, is the chef for Popular, the restaurant in Mr. Schrager’s Public hotel on the Lower East Side. In the Madrid hotel, Mr. Olvera is overseeing Jerónimo and Mr. Muñoz’s name is on Oroya.
Mr. Chan, the former director of pastry operations at the International Culinary Center, is now the culinary director at Kitsby, a dessert bar in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, where savories and sweets blend Asian and Western influences. Kitsby, owned by Amy Hsiao, has just reopened after a pandemic hiatus; among Mr. Chan’s creations are salted egg scones, black sesame financiers and five-spice shortbread.
Formerly at Eleven Madison Park and One White Street, Mr. Mitchell is now the executive chef and a partner at Clover Hill in Brooklyn Heights, which has just reopened after two years because of Covid. His seasonal food has a Gallic accent.
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